You might try it in the summer, when you want a light makeup that doesn’t smudge with sweat and water. That’s when waterproof mascara becomes a beauty ally you gladly resort to. But according to a recent study, you should be cautious. Here’s why.
Some 53% of makeup products contain perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances, better known as PFAS: that’s what emerges from a research conducted in the US and in Canada, published in Environmental Science & Technology Letters (https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acs.estlett.1c00240). It’s quite alarming, since these are permanent substances that can interfere with our metabolism. The riskiest product? Waterproof mascara.
Furthermore, it seems that several products, such as foundation cream, eye shadow and lipstick, of many brands contain plenty of PFAS. There is very convincing (in some cases, final) evidence that these compounds interfere with metabolism, causing thyroid dysfunctions and other hormone-related problems. Plus, these substances are indestructible, practically eternal. Once released into the environment, they will stay there, permanently.
A good 53% of the 200 products tested (including mascara, blush, lipstick, concealer) contained high concentrations of fluorine, which revealed the presence of PFAS. High concentrations of fluorine – at least 0.384 micrograms per square centimetre of product – were found in 58% of eye products, in 63% of foundations and concealers, in 62% of liquid lipsticks and in 82% of waterproof mascaras. Long-lasting or waterproof products had a particularly high fluorine content. This comes as no surprise, since PFAS are water-resistant.
The potential health risks are still not clear. Evidence is still insufficient to claim that physical contact between the skin and these substances can damage our organisms. But there is also an indirect damage, aside from the direct one: the substances we eliminate when we remove our makeup end up in the environment and there they act as endocrine interfering agents and risk compromising a proper metabolic function.
In addition, some types of polyfluoroalkyl substances may break down inside the body, creating other PFAS such as perfluorooctanoic acid, which has been associated with tumours and low birthweight.
Researchers claim this proves that “better labelling and government oversight of harmful chemicals in personal care products” are needed. Awaiting national monitoring bodies to take actions in this regard, it is therefore best to be very cautious.
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